Friday, April 30, 2010

Last part... Maybe... "A walk through death in the desert where time never moves"

We started up at 4 in the morning on the 5 of July and started out even before the minarets started to call for prayers. The dark night was hot and the winds from yesterday kept pumping in hot air in our faces. I was in a terrible mood and people who know me can of course recognize my morning temper so Kamel was not talking.

The first hours in the night I was not feeling good at all, my boots where edgy, my backpack heavy and wrong proportioned... It was a a very bad morning...
As the sun started to rise my mood started to lift aswell and the bad language that went through my mind started to disappear. The landscape started to appear with the sun in front of us and soon we left the mountains behind us and entered the open, flat and yellow desert in front of us.

The temperature was rising and rising and before 10:00 it was already over 40 degrees in the shadow and over 50 in the sun. We started to really feel why people don't normally do stuff like this and why no life could exist here. We where approaching my first possible shelter point on the GPS where it was supposed to be structures.
We arrived at the place around 11:30 if I remembered correctly and the place was empty. We went in a very rustic structure made of palm leaves and old carpets. Inside it was an old tent bed and some mattresses that had to work for a little rest.

Our body felt OK, but I started to feel that my feet was starting to be more and more swollen in the heat, and maybe my choice of boots was not the correct one, I tried to cool them down and tried to level them high so the blood would stop pumping so hard in them. We ate bread with tuna and a lot of nutella on crackers and when finished we tried to get some rest before we should continue.
I woke up sweaty and warm 30 minutes later and could really feel the extreme heat outside the thin carpet wall. At the same time a felt a bit stressed up and woke Camel up and we when went out to continue. We had at this time made the first 40km...

The heat was the worst I have ever experienced and at the beginning I was walking and laughing but after 30 minutes it was not funny anymore. The temperature was at this time over 52 degrees Celsius and my mind started to play with me. We had from the little break around 20km to the next real stop possibility and it was only harsh and boiling desert between us and this point...
I started to see some crazy stuff and at one point I saw some oil drilling stations with fire in the top, and a couple of days after I found out that it does not exist in Tunisia... I have hard time remember all with my boiling brain, but I think we walked in to Kazim and his goats at around 16 or 17 in the afternoon and this amazing Bedouin look like he had saw a couple of ghosts when we came in.
We sat down in his small structure of concrete and he came with fresh goat milk, it tasted like fur but went down easy at this moment due to our fysical status. Kazim started to talk with Camel and started to laugh with the answer he got and after that he was quiet for some 10-15 minutes before he started again and Camel said to me:
- He says that, first of all we are out of our mind crazy to walk in the Sahara during summer time and especially today with the south winds. But that now after survived this, nothing would ever kill us in life... hmmm... At this time he did not know that we intended to continue for 30 something kilometers more... hmmm...

He was a very interesting man and as a thanks for his hospitality I gave him my billabong flip flops I had with me for the day after when we where finished with our torture.

.... And tomorrow I will finalize the end of the expedition because now I'm tired again of writing...



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